Skip to main content

Snow Mold and Turf


Snow on Turf







Snow Mold and Turf

by Josh Cornell, Horticulturist, The Gardens on Spring Creek

Colorado weather is anything but predictable, which can make lawn care challenging.  With the long-lasting snow cover we experienced in Northern Colorado this year, you may be experiencing some snow mold on your grass.

Snow mold is caused by cold-weather fungi that primarily affects grasses.  While we don’t usually see this problem in our arid western climate, it does happen occasionally, especially when the snow lingers.  This provides the perfect conditions for snow mold, which, if allowed to persist, can cause damage and even kill the crowns of grass plants.

There are two types of snow mold: gray (Typhula blight) and pink (Microdochium or Fusarium patch).  Signs of both types become noticeable in the spring when the snow melts, leaving circular patches of matted or crusty grass that range in size across the lawn.  With gray snow bold, these patches are generally grayish-white in color, whereas pink snow mold causes whitish-pink patches.  Additionally, gray snow mold usually only affects the blades of grass plants, while pink snow mold can be more severe, killing the crown and the roots.

Prevention:  To prevent snow mold, clean up your turf areas in the fall.  Snow mold thrives when snow sits on turf for an extended period of time, especially in areas matted with tall grass, leaves and detritus where moisture can be trapped.  Also try to mow your lawn a bit shorter for the last mow of the season, before any snow comes to stay. If you have an area where you have experienced snow mold repeatedly, you can apply a preventative fungicide in the fall as well.

Reaction:  If you find that you do have snow mold, the best thing to do is to rake out the affected area. This will do two things, provide airflow and remove any debris that could be harboring the mold. Sunlight and higher temperatures, along with Colorado’s dry air, are detrimental to snow mold.  After treating your lawn for mold, you may notice spots that have died.  Fill these areas in by reseeding with a product that matches your turf.

For more lawn care and gardening tips, check out our “North Forty Gardener” column in North Forty News, in partnership with Fort Collins Nursery.

Popular posts from this blog

Hornworms by Brionna McCumber

Gardeners in Colorado may find large green caterpillars with an iconic horn on their plants every summer—these are hornworms! Tobacco hornworms ( Manduca sexta ) feed on common garden crops, often leading to conflict with humans. These very hungry caterpillars are defoliators, damaging plants such as tomatoes, peppers, potatoes, and eggplant. While the caterpillars use crops as a food source, which could be seen as negative, the moths provide a critical step in reproduction for the plants via pollination. Carolina Sphinx Moths ( Manduca sexta ), also called Hummingbird moths, are the adult form of hornworm s. They are known for their unique ability to hover mid-flight. Combined with the use of a special elongated proboscis, these moths are especially important for plant species with long tubular flowers that other pollinators cannot access or pollinate.  The Gardens on Spring Creek Butterfly House wants to highlight the importance of these specialized pollinators in our...

Color Theory by Chelsea McLean

By understanding the basics of color theory, gardeners can have a greater impact without more work.  Let’s start with a refresher: you may remember that the primary colors are red, yellow, and blue. Mix these together in different formulations and you get the secondary colors orange, green, and purple. On the left side of the color wheel are the cool colors, the ones that inspire calm and tranquility. Opposite these are the warm colors that excite and buzz.  Mix in your neutral colors – white, black, and grey – and you get tints, tones, and shades.  Working with these foundational concepts is where things start to get exciting. The most dramatic color combinations are those that sit opposite one another on the wheel, like my personal favorite of tangerine and violet. Referred to as contrasting colors, be sure to choose highly saturated colors for contrast plantings as muted colors will only reduce the intensity. Perhaps a monochromatic planting is more your style. When I’...

Growing Poinsettias at The Gardens by Kelly Kellow

Did you know The Gardens on Spring Creek grows and sells poinsettias every year? We asked Greenhouse Horticulturist Kelly Kellow about her process of bringing these vibrant and memorable blooms to fruition .     Timeline is key!     Kelly: From the time of planting to the time they are sold, the poinsettias grown in our greenhouse are on a strict schedule to produce that perfect and beautifully colored plant that everyone is looking for during the holidays. There are three types of poinsettias to choose from: long season (10–12 weeks to develop), medium season (8–9 weeks), and short season (6–7 weeks) .  Medium season poinsettias work best for me here at The Gardens.   The first thing I do before I buy poinsettia plugs is to pull out the previous year's calendar to remind myself of the prior season's schedule .  Then, I begin to make my plan and buy my plants. Working backwards from when I want them ready for selling, I count out the weeks and cr...